The Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony

More than once a day the scent of grasses and flowers, and, of course, the biting aroma of roasting coffee beans waft through the doorway of Ethiopian homes where coffee is an integral part of family culture.

Our word coffee probably comes from a reference to the region of Kaffa where the legendary shepherd, Kaldi, lived. Kaldi is historically given the honor of having discovered the coffee bean. The name Kaffa is derived from ancient Egyptian. It recalls a time when Ethiopia was part of upper Egypt. The best translation is "Forest of God", but it can also be understood as "God's Bush,” an appropriate etymology for coffee.
Ethiopia proudly enjoys its heritage as the birthplace of coffee. Though the berry discovered by Kaldi was to become the world's drink, it is solemnly celebrated in its homeland. In fact, in Ethiopia coffee is often approached with tremendous respect.

Family is central in many cultures and gathering to share news is common everywhere.  But in Ethiopia, that time is observed daily by many, with coffee being central to the event.  Sometimes a family will gather as often as three times a day for fellowship and conversation.  And when friends are invited, they receive special honors at these Ethiopian Coffee Ceremonies.

Adorned in a ritual white garment, often decorated with colorful embroidery, the woman of the household enters the public space of the home, orchestrating the ceremony. First, she sets a mat made of long aromatic grasses on the floor, which is often made of dirt. Adding color to the celebration, freshly cut flowers are spread around the mat, adding their fragrance to the occasion, as well. In the center of the mat, keeping the focus, sits the jebena, a dark handled earthenware pot with bulbous base, a long neck and a short spout. It is filled with cold water and set on an insulated stand containing hot coals. A simple cooking device with hot coals called a brazier sits off to one side of the mat.
Guests begin to arrive. They talk quietly among themselves while keeping an eye on the ceremonial preparations. The matriarch places a handful of green coffee beans into a shallow coffee roasting pan. She places it on the hot brazier. Stirring the pot constantly she keeps the beans in motion. In this way, they will roast evenly, without burning. The beans begin to pop, reminding westerners of popping corn. Deftly she moves the pan back and forth across the brazier in a near constant, scooping action, expelling the husks. The volume of conversation rises with the anticipation of the coming brew.
And then all heads turn and noses lift slightly. Yes. As the beans turn shiny and  black they release their hidden, fragrant oils. Carefully, the matriarch lifts the hot pan of roasted beans and walks slowly around the room holding the pan out for all to admire. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee combined with grass and floral offerings fills the room. Guests show their appreciation by commenting on the careful preparation of her home and the fine job she has done roasting the beans.
Like one handling an ancient treasure, she carefully places the roasted beans into a sturdy wooden bowl known as a mukecha.  Rhythmically she begins to pound the beans into a coarse powder using a zenezena or long wooden mallet. Following a careful rhythm, moving the zenezena up and down, back and forth, she smiles as though this were her private dance.
By now the water in the jebena is near boiling. When the roasted beans are ground, she slowly pours one third of them into its long neck. Patiently she waits as the coffee steeps. As soon as coffee begins to boil, she removes the jebena from the coals, and strains the coffee through a horsehair sieve several times to remove any coarse grounds. Only then will it be ready to serve.
Small china cups called cinis are lined up in a tray, their porcelain lips touching. The celebrant holds the jebena precisely twelve inches above the cinis. She pours the coffee without interruption until all cups are filled. The practiced matriarch can fill them all without spilling a drop.
The first cup of coffee is called the abol, which in Ethiopian means first. The coffee is drunk black with plenty of sugar, or in some regions of Ethiopia, salt. Coffee is taken first to the guests, then to the family members beginning with the eldest. The matriarch is highly praised for both her skill and hospitality as all enjoy the fruits of her labors.
When all have finished their first cup, the celebrant places more of the grounds in the jebena and continues the ceremony.
This next cup is prepared and served as the first. It is called the huletegna, which in Ethiopian means second. When all have enjoyed the second cup of coffee, the matriarch begins preparation for the third brewing.
Here with the third cup called the bereka, the significance of the ceremony is revealed. 
With a sense of reverence she places the last remaining ground beans in the jebena. Bereka means blessing.  It is believed that in this cup a blessing will be imparted in the family and guests. The word bereka has its origins in ancient Hebrew. Since the time of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba in the country that is now modern Ethiopia, a strong community of Ethiopian Jews has worked and worshipped in the region. In the near three millennia since, they have coexisted with Coptic Christians and Muslims. But they have never lost their identity or heritage. The bereka is reminiscent of the birkat hamazon which is the cup of redemption, the third cup of the Passover meal, or, the cup of blessing served during the Christian Eucharist.
This third cup is the time of greatest celebration at the event.
After all three cups have been served and drunk, the ceremony concludes with expressions of sincere thanksgiving and blessings. The matriarch smiles humbly as everyone thanks her for her gracious hospitality and compliments her on her excellent coffee.
Slowly guests depart and children of the host family help clean. This family gathering that is central to life has come to an end.  All anticipate the next, which may be in a few hours, or the next day.  But regardless of how often it occurs, it will be looked forward to with joy and always treated with respect.